Ancient grains: it is time to rediscover them
Ancient grains? It is time to rediscover them!
The need to safeguard genetic resources derives from the greater attention being focused by today’s consumers on a healthier, natural and traditional diet. That is why the market is moving towards rediscovery of “typical” products.
In addition to the guarantee of quality, there is also growing interest among consumers in rediscovering and/or discovering products that have links with the traditions, history and culture of certain geographical areas.
That is why Molino Agostini decided to research the ancient grains used in the past.
What are ancient grains?
Ancient grains are varieties of both durum and soft wheat, grown in Italy in the early part of the twentieth century and abandoned in the industrial period. These are ancient varieties that have remained authentic and original, as they have not been modified in any way to increase their yield and height.
Ancient grains: the pros
The different varieties of ancient grain are particularly rustic, with a low nutrient and water content, because they were selected in a period when intensive agriculture did not yet exist and unbridled use of chemical fertilisers, pesticides and irrigation systems had not started. This is one of the reasons why ancient grains can also be grown in areas where the modern varieties would be more difficult or too expensive to grow.
They produce less and do not need fertilisers or weedkillers. They are also certainly more compatible with our metabolism, thanks to a protein composition that is easier to absorb than modern grains. In other words, they are healthier.
Ancient grain is self-sufficient, stands proud in wind and bad weather and can be mixed with other species.
Ancient grains: the cons
Why are they almost extinct?
There are two main reasons behind the “almost total extinction” of these grains:
- the first is productivity. Ancient grains are characterised by their high stems and low yield. Therefore, in extreme weather conditions such as heavy rain, strong wind or, worse still, hailstorms, this type of grain tended to “lie down”. It would bend over onto the ground, in other words. This meant that the harvest was lost.
Unlike low-stemmed wheat, which is what the modern kinds are. The latter types are much more resistant to atmospheric events, particularly those described above. They also have much higher yields, which means higher productivity. - The second reason is the arrival of agricultural machinery.
In antiquity, the only tool was the “hay sickle” suited to high-stemmed wheat. The arrival of the modern combine harvester, which is ideal for use with low-stemmed wheat, required a change in the raw material.
From ancient grains to naturally organic products
The ancient grains are sturdy, so these varieties are particularly suitable for organic crop growing, where use of fertilisers is absolutely forbidden. That is why products based on these grains are often organic.
Better nutritional properties
The reasons for recovery of these varieties certainly include their nutritional properties, but also their cultural and environmental value.
Selection of the seeds, the arrival of new technologies and the introduction of chemicals into agriculture resulted in the loss and/or replacement of traditional seeds with the more modern ones, to the detriment of nutrition, flavour and health.
Ancient grains have flavours, fragrances and tastes that modern grain simply cannot have. Furthermore, as they are mainly grown by smaller growers, they are finer and of better quality. They have a lower yield and are less resistant to bad weather, so the production costs are higher than those of modern grain. This is why they risk disappearing altogether, which would be a real shame!
Short food supply chain and protection of biodiversity
Purchasing ancient grains is therefore an excellent method for choosing the short food supply chain and protecting biodiversity, avoiding products arriving from distant continents. Obviously, given the variety of ancient grains, it is advisable to choose and purchase the ones that are typical of the local area: traditional Italian wheat.
The difference becomes immediately clear if you try making home-made bread with an ancient grain. Or better still, with the sourdough.
This is why Molino Agostini has sought to seek this knowledge from the memories of the older generation. We sought out these wheat varieties in order to create a bridge between past, present and future. Our ultimate aim is the rediscovery of ancient flavours.
Vergara® bread: our traditional bread
The idea behind the collaboration between Molino Agostini and the Master Bakers’ Association was to seek and rediscover a bread with a traditional flavour, which we decided to call “Vergara Bread”, in homage to the “vergare”, which is regional dialect for the women of the house who worked humbly and tirelessly in the large patriarchal families, raising the children and working in the home and in the fields. It is dedicated to all our beloved and unforgotten grandmothers. Molino Agostini registered the trademark in 2011.
“La Vergara” type 2 flour
Together with creation of this special bread, we started producing our type 2 flour, also called “La Vergara”. This soft wheat flour is a mixture of the ancient grains: Solina, Jervicella, Gentilrosso, Rieti and Frassineto.
The mixture is rich in fibre and mineral salts and has a low gluten content.
Stone grinding of these grains obtains a semi whole grain flour. It contains a higher quantity of bran than the type 0 and type 00 flours, which is why it is darker in colour. In addition to its high fibre content, “La Vergara” type 2 flour is also rich in mineral salts. It has a low gluten content. A more balanced ratio between the starch and gluten present means that this type of flour contains a lower percentage of the latter protein.
This flour can be used without being mixed with other flours. Its characteristics make it ideal for making bread and rolls, but also pizzas and desserts. Products made with “La Vergara” flour will have a very distinctive and more rustic flavour and excellent nutritional properties.
